How to Remove a Seized Control Arm Bolt
The bolt and the bushing sleeve have been together a long time. You may need to intervene.
Control arm and subframe bolts pass through steel sleeves inside rubber bushings, and they rust to the sleeve. The nut comes off, the bolt does not. Penetrant on both ends and rotation are your first tools; a saw is your last.
Step by Step
- 1
Remove the nut
Soak and remove the nut first. Use a 6-point socket and a breaker bar.
- 2
Soak both ends of the sleeve
Spray where the bolt enters and leaves the bushing. Let it sit overnight if you can.
- 3
Rotate the bolt in place
Try to spin the bolt with a breaker bar before driving it out. Once it turns, it will usually come out.
- 4
Drive it out with a drift
Thread the nut back on flush to protect the threads and drive the bolt out with a hammer and drift.
- 5
Cut it out as a last resort
If it will not move, cut the bolt between the sleeve and the bracket with a reciprocating saw. Plan on new bushings and a new bolt.
Rubber bushings burn. Heat the steel only if the bushing is being replaced, and keep fuel lines, brake lines and ABS wiring out of the flame.
- Suspension parts can be under spring load. Support the arm with a jack before removing pivot bolts.
- Many suspension bolts are torque-to-yield or one-time use. Use new hardware where the service manual says to.
- Tighten bushing bolts with the suspension at ride height, then get an alignment.
Which Penetrant, and Why
Amazon links are affiliate links. Disclosure.
First pickPB B'laster
Listed for seized suspension in our review. Non-evaporating, so an overnight soak works.
Read our review
Common Mistakes
Hammering the threaded end without protecting it.
Torquing bushing bolts with the suspension hanging.